Shoe and process of making same



Jan. 2 6, 1937. R. w.y BOWEN I I SHOE AND PROCESS OF MAKING SAME .Filed May 12, 1933 Patented lJian. 26,

entran spara accetti .PATENT FMCE Richard W. Bowen, Jerseyville, DI., assignor, by mesne assignments, to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Paterson, N. J., a corporation of New `lieraey appartenenti@ 12, 193s, serial No. 670,633

i claims. (c1. iz-m) This invention relates to improvements in shoes and the method of making the same, and consists in the novel construction and method of procedure hereinafter set forth.

An object of the invention is to provide a. shoe in which the marginal edge of the upperA is lasted over the margin of an insole, which insole has been previously prepared to render the forepart of the insole exible and to provide the same with a lasting channel against which the margin of the upper isV side-lasted and then trimmed, preparatory to the application of the outsole.

Another object of the invention is to provide a process for producing a shoe having the characteristics above set forth and by which an insole is provided with a lasting lip applied to the insole to form a channel against which the marginal edge of the upper may be side-lasted and then trimmed to form a. base for the outsole.

Additional advantages of the invention will be apparent from the following detailed description,

taken in connection with the accompanying drawing, in which- Fig. 1 is a view of the under face of the insole before the application of the strip against which the marginal edge of the fcrepart and shank part of the upper is lasted.

2 is a sectional viewon the line 2 2 of Fig. 3 illustrates the second step o f the preparation of the insole, showing the strip against which the upper is lasted applied to the insole.

Fig. 4 is a cross-section on the line @-13 of Fig. 3.

Fig. 5 is an isometric view of the shoe showing the upper applied to the insole with part of the upper trimmed after lasting to the insole.

Fig. -6 is a cross-section on the line 5 5 of Fig. 5.

Fig. 7 is a cross-section on substantially the .lsalne line as Fig. 6, but after the outsole has been In producing a shoe of the invention, an' insole blank is rounded to conform to the bottom of the reinforcement member 3 is then applied to the under face of the insole i and secured thereto.

by a layer of cement Q. A de After the insole has been thus prepared, a

last upon which the shoe is to be lasted. forming' strip 5 of any suitable material, such as thin leather, canvas or other fabric, is applied to the face of the insole inwardly of the margin thereof and extending from the heel portion around the shank and the forepart of the shoe. The strip 5 5 is preferably folded to form a double ply with the joined edge inwardly, and a row of stitching 6 is run through the outer marginal edges of the folded plies of the material constituting the strip 5 and through and through the insole and, at the 10 shank portion, through the shank piece 3 as well. The upper and the insole are then assembled on the last and the upper pulled over in a manner similar to the construction of welt shoes. At the joining edge of the strip 5 with the insole, there 15 is formed a rib or lip against which the marginal edge of the upper is lasted, the inner free end of the strip 5 being raised by a suitable anvil, not shown, to the position indicated in Fig. 5. The marginal edge of the insole beyond the strip 5 20 has applied thereto a coating of cement, and the marginal edge of the upper is likewise coated with cement. The marginal edge of the upper is then lasted to the upstanding edge of the strip 5,

by staples 1 or other securing means. The 25 counter portion of the upper is turned in over the heel seat and nailed or otherwise secured in place.

After the margin of the upper becomes adhesively secured to the margin of the insole by the setting of the cement layer, the strip 5 and 30 the surplus margin of the upper through which the lasting securing devices extend is trimmed oi, as indicated in Fig. 5. The trimming is below the row of staples or other fastening devices, so that the marginal edge of the upper extends ush '35 with the remaining portion of the strip 5 after the trimming operation.

The outsole 8 is cemented and laid and' is attached in place by sewing through the outsole, the marginal edge of the upper and the insole.

From the foregoing description, it will be understood that the channeling of the insole isavoided by providing the applied strip 5 to form the rib or lip and that, by reason thereof, the insole can be slashed or scored from margin to margin, affording increased flexibility of the forepart of the insole. Furthermore, by applying the lasting strip, the operation of side-lasting the upper may be performed much more economically than where side-lasted against a channel formed by channel- 5.0 ing the material of the sole. The applied strip aords arigid means of securingthe upper in exact symmetry with the insole, permitting the adhesive attachment of the margin of the upper to the margin of the insole. Likewise, by applying the lasting strip to form the rib or lip, an insole of less thickness may be employed, as compared with the thickness of an insole where the lasting channel is formed by channeling the material of the insole.

If desired, the strip 5 may be extended around the heel portion of the insole and the free ends of the strip 5 arranged in abutting position, preferably at the inner side of the breast of the heel seat. Thus the heel portion of the upper may also be side-lasted and the nailed heel seat dispensed with. The heel portion of the upper may be adhesively secured to the insole margin in the same manner as illustrated with respect to the shank and forepart of the upper.

-It will be observed, therefore, that the invention fully accomplishes its purposes, and that it is not restricted to the exact construction described nor the procedure disclosed. I do not limit myself, therefore, to the exact disclosure, but. what I claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent isz- 1. A shoe comprising an insole slashed transversely at itsforepart, a strip of material sewed on the lower surface of the insole inwardly of the margin thereof and extending-` from the heel portion around the shank and forepart of the shoe,

an upper having a marginal edge turned over the marginal edge of the insole and against said strip and adhesively secured to the insole around the marginal area thereof exterior of said strip, and an outsole securedover the marginal edge of said upper and attached to said insole.

2. A shoe comprising'an insole having the outer surface thereof slashed to form score lines extending from margin to margin thereof, a strip stitched to the outer face of the insole and extending approximately from the breast to the heel seat around the shank portion and forepart of the insole forming a lasting shoulder, and an upper having the shank portion and forepart thereof turned inwardly over the marginal edge of the insole and abutting against said lasting shoulder.

3. The method of making shoes which comprises supplying an insole of a size to t the bottom of a last, said insole being scored entirely across its forepart and provided with a strip forming a lasting rib extending from the heel portion of the insole around the margin of the shank and forepart, assembling and pulling over an upper on said last and side-lasting the lasting margin of the upper against said rib, adhesively securing the margin of the upper to the margin of the insole, and then trimming off the lasting edgeof the upper and of the strip forming the la sting rib.

4. The method of making shoes which comprises supplying an insole which is slashed transf versely from edgeto edge to increase its flexibility and has a strip secured to its outer surface to form a lasting rib, applying cement to the marginal portions of the insole and a shoe upper, assembling the insoleand upper on a last, working the marginal portion of the upper over the insole and into lasted position against the rib, attaching said marginal portion to the rib to hold the upper in lasted position while the cement is setting, and trimming 0E the attached portions ,of the upper and rib thereby preparing the shoe bottom for receiving an outsole.

RICHARD W. BOWEN. 

